Healthy Materials Series: Hemp
Our Healthy Materials series considers the health and environmental impacts of the substances that surround us. In this installment we turn our attention to hemp, a versatile and sustainable option for your home.
WORDS Elissa Rose
Hemp is one of humanity’s oldest cultivated plants, with a history stretching back over 10,000 years. Archaeological evidence suggests it was first domesticated in ancient China, where it was spun into fabric, used for rope and even pressed into early forms of paper. The plant’s resilience and versatility saw it spread across Asia, the Middle East and Europe, becoming a staple crop for civilizations from the Egyptians to the Vikings. In medieval Europe, hemp was used to make sails, clothing and parchment, while in colonial America, it was so valued that farmers were obliged to grow it to send to England. Today, hemp is experiencing a resurgence. Fast-growing and requiring far less water than conventional crops like non-organic cotton, hemp has emerged as a leading choice for environmentally-conscious consumers.
Harvesting the hemp. Photo courtesy of Stokkete/Adobe
Health Impact
Hemp is widely regarded as a healthy material for the home, thanks to its natural, non-toxic properties and resistance to common allergens. As a textile, hemp is naturally hypoallergenic, antibacterial and resistant to mold and mildew, making it an ideal choice for bedding, upholstery and curtains – particularly for those with respiratory conditions or sensitive skin. Its breathability and moisture-wicking capabilities also help regulate indoor humidity levels, reducing the likelihood of dampness and associated health risks.
Unlike synthetic fabrics, untreated hemp does not emit Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs), which are often released by chemically processed textiles and can contribute to indoor air pollution. This makes hemp a safer choice for improving indoor air quality, especially in enclosed spaces. Additionally, hemp’s natural durability means it doesn’t require chemical treatments for strength or longevity, further reducing exposure to harmful substances in the home. Beyond home textiles, hemp is also used in hempcrete, a sustainable building material made from the plant’s woody core mixed with lime. Hempcrete is non-toxic, breathable and naturally resistant to pests, contributing to healthier indoor environments.
Environmental Impact
Hemp is widely celebrated as an environmentally-friendly material. It grows quickly, reaching maturity in just 3 to 4 months and requires significantly less water than conventional crops like non-organic cotton. Hemp also thrives without synthetic fertilizers or pesticides, while its deep root system prevents soil erosion and improves soil health. Additionally, hemp plants act as carbon sinks, absorbing more CO₂ per acre than any forest or commercial crop. However, the environmental impact can vary depending on processing methods. Traditional hemp processing, known as ‘retting’, involves soaking stalks in water, which can lead to water pollution if not properly managed. Modern innovations, such as mechanical processing and closed-loop water systems, are helping to mitigate these issues.
Photo courtesy of Fotoschlick/Adobe
Pros:
- Fast-growing and renewable: Hemp reaches maturity within 3 to 4 months, making it highly sustainable.
- Naturally antibacterial and hypoallergenic: Ideal for home textiles and furnishings.
- Low water and chemical needs: Thrives without synthetic fertilizers or pesticides.
- Biodegradable: Breaks down naturally without leaving harmful residues.
- Carbon sequestration: Absorbs more CO₂ per acre than most trees.
Cons:
- Processing impact: Traditional retting methods can cause water pollution if not managed responsibly.
- Chemical treatments: Some hemp products are bleached, dyed or softened with synthetic chemicals.
- Higher cost: Certified organic and responsibly processed hemp can be more expensive than conventional textiles.
- Limited availability: High-quality hemp products can be harder to find compared to more common fabrics like cotton.
Typical Finishes, Dyes and Adhesives
Hemp fabrics are often left untreated or finished with natural oils to maintain their durability and breathability. However, some products undergo chemical treatments to soften the coarse fibers, bleach the natural beige color or apply synthetic dyes. These treatments can introduce VOCs or other harmful residues, compromising hemp’s health and environmental benefits. Additionally, hemp-based building materials, such as hempcrete, may use adhesives that contain synthetic resins, though many manufacturers are now prioritizing formaldehyde-free alternatives. To ensure a safer choice, look for hemp products finished with low-impact dyes and water-based adhesives.
Hemp weaving. Photo courtesy of Wasanajai/Adobe
Terms to Avoid
When purchasing hemp products, be cautious of terms like ‘softened’, ‘bleached’ or ‘high-performance’, as these often indicate chemical treatments. ‘Cotton-blend hemp’ may also reduce the product’s sustainability, especially if non-organic cotton is used. Similarly, terms like ‘weatherproof’ or ‘stain-resistant’ suggest the use of synthetic coatings, which can introduce VOCs. Instead, look for certifications such as Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), OEKO-TEX or Cradle to Cradle, which ensure the product is responsibly processed and free from harmful chemicals.
Practical Tips
- Choose certified products: Look for GOTS, OEKO-TEX, or Cradle to Cradle certifications to ensure low-impact processing.
- Opt for natural finishes: Select untreated or water-based finishes to avoid chemical residues.
- Avoid synthetic blends: Stick to 100 percent hemp rather than cotton or polyester blends for maximum sustainability.
- Support ethical brands: Choose companies committed to environmentally-friendly farming and responsible manufacturing. Brands such as Couleur Chanvre are creating healthy, organic hemp textiles.
- Check processing methods: Look for products made with mechanical rather than chemical processing.
- Proper care: Wash hemp fabrics in cool water with gentle detergents to preserve their longevity.
Table linens made from hemp by de Le Cuona. Photo courtesy of de Le Cuona
 Gauze curtains in hemp by Couleur Chanvre. Photo courtesy of Couleur Chanvre |
 Hemp bed linens by Couleur Chanvre. Photo courtesy of Couleur Chanvre |
Feature Image: Couleur Chanvre
Photography: Stokkete/Adobe, Fotoschlick/Adobe, Wasanajai/Adobe, de Le Cuona, Couleur Chanvre
