Linen is one of the oldest textiles in human history, archeologists discovered flax fibers more than 34,000 years old in a cave in the Republic of Georgia. It was used in ancient Egypt, where it was revered as a symbol of purity and wealth. Linen fibers were used to wrap mummies, make clothing and produce home textiles long before modern industrial processes. Derived from the flax plant, linen was prized for its strength, breathability and ability to withstand time. The ancient Greeks and Romans also embraced linen for clothing and domestic use and by the Middle Ages, it was a staple across Europe. Belgium, Ireland and northern France became renowned centers of fine linen production, a tradition that continues today, with brands such as Libeco producing sustainable, healthy textiles. In modern homes, linen is used for bedding, upholstery, curtains, towels and table linens, offering a combination of natural texture, softness and ecological responsibility.

A European flax field. Photography by Miroslav /Adobe

Health Impact

Linen is naturally hypoallergenic, antibacterial and resistant to dust mites, making it an excellent choice for those with allergies or skin sensitivities. Its exceptional breathability and moisture-wicking properties help regulate body temperature and humidity, promoting better sleep when used in bedding and contributing to a healthier indoor environment. Linen is also anti-static and non-irritating, making it comfortable for direct skin contact. Unlike synthetic textiles, untreated linen does not emit Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs), which can compromise indoor air quality. However, certain commercial linen products may undergo chemical treatments, such as bleaching, formaldehyde-based wrinkle-resistant finishes or synthetic dye applications, all of which can leave residues that off-gas or cause skin irritation.

Environmental Impact

Linen is one of the most sustainable natural fibers, with flax requiring far less water and fewer agricultural inputs compared to crops like cotton. Flax grows well in cooler climates with minimal fertilizer and pesticide use and improves soil health through crop rotation. When grown in its ideal geographical zone the entire flax plant can be used, leaving no waste and flax even retains 9.14 tons of CO2 per acre per year. Linen is also biodegradable and recyclable, returning to the earth without leaving harmful residues. However, the environmental impact can vary depending on the processing methods – mechanical retting (the process of separating fibers from the stalk) is more sustainable, whereas chemical retting, although faster, can pollute waterways if not properly managed. Additionally, the dyeing and finishing stages of linen production can introduce chemicals unless carefully controlled.

Harvested flax. Image courtesy of Libeco

Pros:

  • Made from flax, a low-water, low-input crop.

  • Naturally antibacterial, hypoallergenic and dust-mite resistant.

  • Breathable and moisture-wicking for comfort and indoor air quality.

  • Durable and long-lasting with proper care.

  • Fully biodegradable and recyclable.

Cons:

  • Can wrinkle easily unless treated with chemical finishes.

  • Some commercial linen is bleached or dyed with synthetic chemicals.

  • Chemical retting methods can be environmentally harmful.

  • High-quality, responsibly produced linen can be more expensive.

  • Requires careful washing to maintain softness and longevity.

Weaving linen textiles. Image courtesy of Libeco

Typical Finishes, Dyes and Adhesives

While natural linen is free from harmful chemicals, some commercial linen products are treated with synthetic finishes to improve wrinkle resistance, stain repellency or colorfastness. These finishes may contain formaldehyde, PFAS or VOC-emitting resins, which can off-gas and reduce indoor air quality. Similarly, synthetic dyes may include heavy metals or azo compounds that can pose environmental and health risks. For bedding and upholstery, adhesives used in composite linen products may contain formaldehyde-based resins unless stated otherwise. To ensure safety, look for linen that uses low-impact dyes, water-based finishes and is certified by organizations like Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) or OEKO-TEX.

Terms to Avoid

When shopping for linen products, avoid terms like ‘wrinkle-resistant’, ‘stain-resistant’, or ‘easy-care’, as these often indicate chemical treatments that can off-gas and cause irritation. Be cautious of ‘blended linen’ products, which may contain synthetic fibers that compromise breathability and sustainability. Also, avoid ‘optical brighteners’ or ‘colorfast finishes’ that may involve heavy chemicals. Instead, choose products labeled ‘100% linen’ or ‘stonewashed’ (a mechanical rather than chemical softening process).

Weaving textiles in Mungo’s mill. Image courtesy of Mungo

Practical Tips

  • Choose certified products: Look for GOTS or OEKO-TEX certifications to ensure environmentally responsible, chemical-free processing.

  • Avoid chemical finishes: Steer clear of linen labeled as wrinkle-free, stain-resistant or easy-care.

  • Opt for natural dyes: Support brands that use low-impact or plant-based dyes.

  • Support responsible brands: Choose makers like Libeco, who combine craftsmanship with strict environmental standards.

  • Prioritize stonewashed linen: This provides softness without chemical treatments.

  • Wash with care: Use mild detergents and cool water to preserve the integrity and longevity of linen fabrics.

Discover Aiayu, Mungo and Libeco linen at the WLLW Shop.

Napkins and tablecloths crafted using OEKO-TEX certifiedlinen by Standard Affair.  Image courtesy of Standard Affair

Linen towels by Aiayu. Image courtesy of Aiayu

Mungo linen Cloverleaf tablecloth. Image courtesy of Mungo

Piped Linen Duvet Cover in Natural/Forestby Cultiver. Photography by Austin John

Feature Image: Standard Affair

Photography: Miroslav / Adobe, Libeco, Mungo, Standard Affair, Aiayu, Austin John

Further Info

Alliance for European Flax-Linen and Hemp CFDA Flax Fact Sheet A Sustainable Approach to Linen Dyeing